On Wednesday February 6, Malan opened the Bryant Park tent shows with a tribute to Catherine Deneuve. Unlike many shows that purport to have an inspiration, Malan successfully channeled the “captivating dichotomies” of the movie goddess and unified his theme in mood, clothes, and accessories.
What the heck does that mean?
-The clothing was simultaneously subdued and sensual. On the one hand, there was no frill that would be out of place at an office or family wedding – this is a practical collection. On the other hand, Malan used sumptuous silks and wools that invite touch and wear. The lines were simple and clean in ways that suggested unruffled femininity.
- The clothes appeared simple, but closer examination revealed surprises in construction. Examples: an asymmetric cashmere coat dress, a sapphire evening dress with multiple layers behind, detailing cuffs on classic long-sleeved blouses, back-cinched belts
- Malan stuck to a limited classic palette featuring mostly cream, red, and black, but with subtle color differences arising from texture and fabric combinations
- The models sported Catherine Deneuve’s trademark hair and gloves. It looked retro-charming on most of them.
- And, of course some of the models toted umbrellas a la Cherbourg. Amanda Fields, who modeled two outfits, told us she was glad she didn’t have to carry an open umbrella, since ‘it’s bad luck’.
My favorites? I would like to own the cream colored herringbone coat, the asymmetric black dress modeled by Amanda, a red and black two-piece suit, and a black double-layer belted trapeze dress. Oh, and several of the purses. Please.
In attendance were Project Runway alums Diana Eng, Katherine Gerdes, Angela Keslar, and Emmett McCarthy. And sitting next to me – Laura K and TBone! What a treat – they are even funnier and more engaging in person than in print.
Ed. Note: I'm pretty sure Tbone paid Nancy T for that last remark.... LK
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